More Camper Assembling

What you're seeing in the top 4 pictures are the sides and front and the framing you seen is covered with the 0.5gauge  galvanized sheet steel and then painted with enamel on both sides to help with aging and rust inhibiting, Then, on the inside layer I have put at least a 2 centimeter foam insulation blanket type and then covered it with the (3/16) supposed marine grade plywood painted on both sides. Then on the outside I have used a 1/2 centimeter blanket foam insulation, covered again by (3/16) marine grade plywood painted on both sides. This provides strength, and also in the Philippine hot sun, it keeps the UV rays from turning the all metal shell into an oven.

In the left picture I have started to frame a storage cupboard upper left which has a matching one on the other side upper left. 

In the center is the window I had made to fit my hole so we could look out of the kitchen through a solid glass window. 

I will tell you a story of the kitchen window. I had measured the space available to cut a hole for it and decided I wanted a mirror type so you couldn't see in from the outside. So, when I went to a place that build side-cars that had some glass available rather than a window place, because they would have the rubber trim that had to hold in a window in a cut metal hole. After explaining to the seller what I wanted they began to cut me a piece of glass mirror. You'd have thought that when I explained to him that I wanted a mirror looking window and I did say to see through one way, they wouldn't have messed up and just cut some mirror glass that you couldn't see through. By this time I had arranged for them to come to the house and install it under my supervision. 

Of course when the installer showed up with a mirror, and not a see through glass window, I was shocked LOL! Needless to say, we had to postpone the installation until he came back with the right material. I was gracious enough to buy the cut mirror from them for later purposes, so they didn't lose any money in the deal. 

On the picture above it shows our 1/4 hp AC unit good for about 5000btu's. Above the AC unit are 3 solar panel storage racks that hold our 3 - 100 watt panels. I also have 2 -120 watt panels but that rack is too small for their storage.

Above on the left is the front where I've placed the spare tire rack. And on the right can you notice the hole in the floor? Because the height of the ceiling inside is just about 5'3" (five foot three inches). So the kitchen counter is about 8 inches lower than normal. My wife can sit comfortably on a stool to do anything. But, now back to the hole in the floor. It serves two purposes, the first is an escape exit in emergency as it is 33 inches long and 25 inches wide, second, I've made a insertable steel framing cage to have a lowered floor for standing up in with strong abs flooring grates that you would use for a dog floor. It is held in place by 4 cornered C clamps mounted to the camper framing.

In these pictures on the left is my 40amp SRNE solar controller, charger and 12v power source if you want to use it. The center picture shows the 2 - 100ah Lithium Ion batteries on that side of which I later installed a BMS for both. (BMS battery management system) anytime you series 4 - 3.2v batteries together to form a 12v system, you have to have automatic balanced charging. In the picture on the right is my Pure sinewave 2000 watt inverter with charger. This provides 220 volts when in use to the campers AC unit and kitchen and utility plug. I have a 600watt automatic drip coffee maker and a 200 watt rice cooker. The utility plug is in the back cupboard with the SRNE solar controller.

In these pictures, the one on the left is over top of the LI batteries and contains a 12v power outlet for utility purposes and has a junction bar in it for all of the camper right taillight lighting circuits. The next picture is the cabinet on the left of the camper rear that hold our LPG tank and water feeds which has also a matching junction bar for the camper tail light wiring . And the LPG hose that is a quick connect model goes to the front of the camper under the kitchen counter where we have room for an extra LPG tank. On the very right is the emergency switch over module for either inverter power or shore power. The camper is equipped with a 220v input shore power plug on the outside.

In the picture on the left is the Lumiax 20 amp solar controller, charger and 12v power source, it now controls the voltage going to another 100ah Lithium Ion battery. I replace the 105ah sealed lead acid battery you see in the second picture with a LI battery. So our camper now has a total of 300ah of Lithium Ion batteries, connected in parallel for a good solid source of power for the AC unit. In the two pictures on the right are the two multi LED lite switching panels for various lights, TV and TV box in the camper. And various lighting on the outside of the camper. They each also have 2 USB outlets and 1- 12v outlet in each of them. I have extended 1 USB feed from them to each side of the camper one in front and one about halfway in for charging stations for our portable devices.

Ok, top left is the cupboard under the sink. Top right is the cupboard that sits behind and to the left of our chest type refrig. that holds the extra LPG tank and you can see the quick connect hose. 

On the left below is the solar cabinet and vents for airflow into the camper when the exhaust fans are on, of which there are three. one left front that's a low rpm for just moving air from the back to the front and out. In the right front above the porta- potty spot is a high air flow exhaust fan for clearing the air and in the kitchen above the cooking area I have built a range hood that has 5 exhaust fans in it to exhaust any heat created when we are forced to cook inside like if its was raining out. 

On the right is our LPG instant hot water unit good for 7 liters a minute through-put! It takes care of both the inside shower, kitchen sink and outside shower if we decide to use it.